The following approach is suggested when signing on an individual.

1. State the starting time and location. Make sure any out of state members, or new resident members are familiar with how to get to the departure point.

2. Give your best estimate on round trip time, mileage, vertical gain, and route plan.

3. Let the person know of the availability of water on route, especially on longer, late season trips, when snow and runoff can be scarce.

4. Give the person an idea of the degree of difficulty that will likely be encountered, such as “mostly class three, but a couple of class four pitches may be encountered.”

5. Be sure to mention any moderate to severe exposure that you expect. Remember that not everyone may be as comfortable as you in such areas. Be as accurate as possible.

6. Recommend bringing climbing helmets if terrain to be ascended requires this.

The following questions may be asked of the caller, particularly if the registrant is unknown to you.

1. Is the person a member of GMS, and have they signed the waiver liability form. This query should be made if the persons name does not appear on your most recent membership list. Leaders should be supplied at least once a year with an up to date membership list. (Note: The cost of providing membership lists to each coordinator is prohibitive and it is difficult to keep them up to date as new members join. Therefore the best way to determine if an individual is a member and if he/she has signed the GMS Liability Waiver form is to request the individual bring his/her current membership card to the climb. The coordinator should ask to see the card at the beginning of a climb. Guests must also sign this form but will not have a membership card. To verify that the guest has signed the GMS Responsibility Waiver form have all participants, and especially guests, fill out the blanks on a group sign in sheet that contains the text of the waiver form. To download a printable copy of the sign in sheet click HERE or go to the Forms page and down load it there.)

2. If the person is climbing under guest status, be sure to inform them that a guest liability waiver form must be signed and that members have priority in signing up for a climb.

3. What experience does the individual possess, particularly in the Glacier Park region?

4. Is this person physically fit to the extent required to safely complete this climb?

5. Does the person carry sufficient foul weather gear for Glacier’s unpredictable, occasionally brutal weather?

These questions and comments are obviously common sense, and one might think it unnecessary, but go through the process anyway when dealing with someone unknown to you, or with someone who has had problems before. Surprisingly, not everyone possesses common sense, or is as experienced as they let on. A minimal amount of checking at this point can avert a distinctly bad experience for the individual, the group, and you as coordinator.

Planning the Climb
All available resources should be utilized by the coordinator, especially in convoluted complex routes. It is simply not good enough to try and remember a route from five years ago. The following suggestions will help insure a good time for all, as well as a successful ascent.

1. Study the route description, if present, in Gordon Edwards’ “A Climbers Guide To Glacier National Park”.. If the route is highly involved, then a copy of the description should be brought on the climb.

2. Carefully examine the route on topographic maps. The 7 1/2 minute quadrangle is preferable for greater detail, but the 15 minute Glacier Park map is sufficient for many peaks. Topographic maps should always be carried on the climb. They may become invaluable if visibility drops to zero, or you get off route.

3. Confer with other climbers who have made successful ascents of the objective.

4. If you have not previously climbed the mountain, or climbed it many years ago, then a short scouting trip may be in order. One should determine the best bushwhack route, dangerous rockfall areas, degree of difficulty, and approximate time required for the ascent.

5. If you have not climbed the peak before, then route selection should be determined by keeping in mind the size of the group and variable skill levels within the group. In general, with larger groups the control problems are more pronounced on a long climb.

6. Plan an alternative, should the objective be unattainable due to weather, trail closure, etc.. This alternative might be a trail hike, or an ascent of another peak in the same area. Err to the conservative when aborting a climb due to inclement or threatening weather. That mountain will wait for GMS another time.

Last Few Days Prior to the Climb
It is the coordinator’s responsibility to obtain updated weather forecasts in the days preceding the climb. It is not uncommon for separate weather systems or variable conditions to be operative in different regions of Glacier, particularly on opposing sides of the continental divide. The leader should stay current with the forecast for the area of the climb, by contacting GMS members on that side of the park, if the climb is out of the leader’s immediate area. For east side climbs, the radio/TV stations in Calgary, Lethbridge, and Great Falls provide dependable mountain front forecasts. Flathead area radio/TV offer better predictions for west of the divide.

Cancelling a Climb
A hundred percent chance of precipitation makes this an easy choice. Unfortunately, many times the forecast is for marginal weather which may then deteriorate further as the climbing day approaches. The leader should wait as long as possible before aborting under these conditions, possibly as close as 12 to 15 hours prior to the climb. You should have your alternative peak/hike plan in place to relate to those concerned people who call to learn if the climb is still on. It is the coordinator’s responsibility to see that each group member is contacted should the outing be cancelled at the last minute. If the leader does not call, then group members should assume the climb/alternative is still on, and make their own determination on whether to participate.

Climbing Day - At the Gathering Point
The following procedure is recommended for leaders prior to initiating the climb.

1. Introduce yourself to those you have not met, and introduce any first timers to the rest of the group.

2. Check off the names on your list to insure that all have arrived prior to departure. You might also request that participants sign in on the GMS Sign In Sheet which also contains the GMS Liability Release. This form can be downloaded HERE .

3. Visually assess the apparent fitness and preparedness of the group, particularly those you are not acquainted with. Do not hesitate to ask an individual if they have extra clothing and foul weather gear if their pack appears light or inadequate. In addition, assess if everyone has proper footwear for this type of outing.

4. Appoint a group co-leader, with that person’s permission. This individual should take a middle or rear position during the climb. The co-leader should work in concert with the leader in keeping the group together. The co-leader should also assist in deciding when rest stops should be taken, and what pace is appropriate for this group. The co-leader should be someone with significant group climbing experience. The co-leader should be informed that it may fall upon him/her to accompany a sick, unfit, or slightly injured climber back to the trail head, should no one volunteer to assist the individual and the leader is needed to stay and guide the group.

5. Make sure everyone has parked vehicles properly. Tickets have been issued in the past, in the Cut Bank Valley, for example.

6. Inquire as to the interests and professions of individuals in the group. A biologist, wildflower expert, geologist, or persons with other areas of expertise might be able to offer interesting observations and insights during the climb.

7. Make it known there is no guarantee of reaching the objective if weather is possibly going to be a factor, and that factors beyond your control could result in going to Plan B (your alternate hike/climb), or aborting the trip altogether. Your decision is final. Most people understand this, but on occasion some may wish to push ahead beyond what you consider wise. Make it known in this case that such action causes concern, and potential confusion among the group after a split. Those who depart from the group should be made aware that you as leader, as well as GMS, bear no responsibility or liability for them upon their departure from the group.

During the Climb

1. The first five to ten minutes on the trail should be slightly slower than normal pace in order to warm up muscles and joints after a likely lengthy car ride. This can be especially important on cooler mornings.

2. Take periodic head counts, particularly during and after bushwhacks, after rapid descents on scree, and after any breaks, prior to resuming the climb.

Pace
Pace ranks immediately after careful route choice and safe group climbing techniques in importance for insuring an enjoyable outing for all. The following suggestions are made on this subject.

1. The make-up of the group dictates pace, not your own personal ability or that of the stronger climbers. No one should be consistently left too far in the rear as they will almost always overexert in attempting to stay close. This is a perfect recipe for an accident. Be sure that you and the co-leader make it known that people can request a slower pace or a break if they need one.

2. As leader on a typical straightforward scramble, you need not always be in the front of the pack. Drop back periodically and assess the situation at the middle or rear of the group. Be sure to inquire of the co-leader if he/she has observed any signs of stress as well.

3. You as leader set the pace based on the considerations listed above.. In steep terrain or in couloirs no one should exceed that pace. Individuals bolting ahead greatly increase the danger of injury or fatality due to rockfall. The burden of addressing such individuals falls squarely on the leader, and you must address it early on.
   

   1. An initial diplomatic request of the individual(s) to stay with the group should be made.
      

   2. If the individual(s) continue to ignore safe group climbing etiquette, then a stern warning should be issued that continued lack of consideration of others will not be tolerated.
      

   3. Additional offenses should be documented in writing and forwarded to the Board of Directors of GMS for possible future action against the offending climber(s).

Similar procedures to those above can be found in the regulations of other major mountaineering clubs. It may be unpleasant for you as leader to be involved in a confrontational situation with someone, but the group as a whole will appreciate your efforts to insure their safety. Failure to address a problem could result in the leader having to live with the knowledge that a tragedy could have been averted.

A group can be safely allowed to spread out on a long scree slope for example. The leader can allow each climber to ascend or descend at their own pace to some predetermined gathering point. Always make it clear that the group will reassemble at some point. This is a perfect time for the leader to mingle throughout the group.

Taking Breaks
Periodic breaks should be taken based on the makeup of the group. Most GMS climbs are rather long, (greater than ten miles), with over 3000’ of vertical gain. Time may be a concern on a long day, but experience shows that two or three 5-10 minute stops on the ascent will add no more than thirty minutes to the length of the climb. This plus a long lunch break and summit rest unquestionably adds to the overall enjoyment. Stronger climbers who normally take minimal rest stops must not induce the leader to push longer than the back of the pack folks might desire.

Decisions Made Enroute
Route options occur during any outing. In some instances, the coordinator should seek out and consider the opinions of other climbers; however the final decision rests with the leader. Do not hesitate to utilize the experience and expertise of others in formulating a decision that falls into the category of a judgement call.

Decidedly Unfit, Sick, or Slightly Injured Climber
If an individual is in unsatisfactory physical condition to safely complete the climb, the leader must request that the person either turn back or wait for the group to return. If someone decides to turn back due to illness, lack of fitness, or slight sprain or muscle pull, then the leader must insure that they are not alone. If no volunteers come forward, then someone should be appointed, most likely the co-leader. Under no conditions should a physically stressed individual be allowed to return any appreciable distance alone, regardless of their desire to do so. Any minor accidents, illness, or other factors which force a climber to turn back should be included in the post climb report to GMS.

Serious Injury or Fatality
A serious injury or accident is that which requires evacuation and hospitalization. The facts of the accident, not opinions, should be reported to the proper authorities, which in most GMS climbs would be the Park Service, as quickly as is humanly possible. Qualified members of the group should assist in the evacuation as allowed by Park Service rescue personnel. Contact the President of GMS as soon as possible, or another GMS officer should the president be unavailable. Do not notify the victim’s family, this is the responsibility of the appropriate authorities. As time allows on the site, the leader should prepare a brief written summary of the accident, while the details are still fresh in his/her mind. Later this report can be completed when hindsight and calmer emotions are present. This report should be submitted to the Board of Directors of GMS within one week.

In an accident situation requiring evacuation assistance, the injured climber should never be left alone, unless it would threaten the life of fellow climbers who might attempt to reach the injured member. Victims with head, neck, or spinal injuries should only be moved by trained rescuers using appropriate equipment. Usually victims of stroke, heart attack, or internal injuries should not be moved.

Time may be extremely critical to survival of the injured party. The strongest two climbers not required for first aid support should be sent for help. No one should be sent out alone, unless absolutely necessary. These runners should have written information which you as leader have supplied. This would include an exact location, condition of the injured climber, and your plans as to whether you may have to move or will stay put. Some climbers are currently carrying cellular phones, which could prove a life saver if the accident occurs in an elevated area where a signal can be received to the cell phone.

Extreme weather may force a retreat, but this decision must be tempered by the condition of the victim, the terrain, and estimated time before help can arrive. Carefully monitor the ongoing condition of the victim as best you can, and do not make any hasty decisions concerning movement of the group or the victim. A suitable landing site for a helicopter should be scouted for, and marked with something plainly visible from the air.

Do only what you feel you are competent to do in a serious accident situation. Other members of the group may have skills which will prove valuable. Determine who has, for example, the best first aid or rescue training.

In the case of a fatality, as soon as death is clearly established, gather and inform the group. Cover and wrap the body for protection against the elements or predators. If possible, two members of the party should remain with the body until it is retrieved. If this is not possible then identification, date and cause of death should be left on the body. Two runners sent ahead should notify the Park Service and supply a brief factual account of the accident as well as a precise location of the body as pinpointed on a topographic map which should be sent with them.

When descending after a fatality, keep everyone close together and under control as best you can. Your main responsibility at this point is to the living. When arriving at the trailhead do not discuss the incident with anyone other than the proper authorities or GMS board members or officers. Do not notify the victim‘s family. That is the job of the authorities. Make an earnest attempt to avoid self recrimination or speculation as to what might have been, during your descent.

Environmental Considerations
All leaders should be aware of current Glacier National Park Service guidelines on climbing in the Park. Copies of guidelines and restrictions are usually available at visitor centers or ranger stations. Certain sensitive alpine environments must be avoided or traversed with care. Some specific restrictions currently apply in the Logan Pass area. It is the coordinator’s responsibility to insure that GMS retains good rapport with the Park Service on this subject. (Coordinators might want to review the Back Country User's Guide by Rolf Larson found HERE.)

Essential Equipment for Leaders
The following equipment should either be carried by the leader or brought by someone else at the leader’s request in order to assist in route finding, treatment of minor injuries, and in promoting a safer trip.

1. Topographic maps - preferably the 7 1/2 minute quadrangle for the area to be traversed. The 15 minute Glacier Park map is better than nothing however.

2. Compass - a little practice in orientation could prove helpful on a climb where visibility deteriorates to fifty yards or less. Items one and two can be absolutely critical should near zero visibility suddenly occur while on a complex route. One can become disoriented quite rapidly in such a situation, yet think they are not. The possession and knowledge of how to use these items could make the difference between a hot shower and becoming “benighted”.

3. Basic first aid kit, (see attached list of recommended supplies at the end of this manual).

4. Notes from the climbing guide, or references from other sources are more reliable than memory.

5. Group list, plus small notebook and pencil.

6. Rope, harness, and other gear that might be needed for difficult pitches or to assist lesser experienced people who temporarily need some security. If the leader expects any difficulty on route, and does not possess these items, then he/she should contact members to see if anyone could bring the gear and is knowledgeable in their use.

Optional Equipment
Although not essential, cellular phones and an altimeter could prove useful, and may be carried at the discretion of the coordinator.

After the Climb

1. 1. Take a final head count, and make sure that all cars start in case someone left their lights on or has other mechanical problems.

2. 2. A short report should be filed with GMS within two weeks. This will assist GMS in maintaining a permanent record which leaders may reference in the future. Portions of the report also make interesting reading in the following year’s Journal. The following should be included:
   a. Peak, route, and date.
   b. list of participants
   c. weather conditions
   d. Time required for ascent and round trip time
   e. Mileage, vertical gain, and difficulty, if the peak is not described in the Climber’s
   guide.
   f. Note any difficulties with the route or with individuals.
   g. Report any other pertinent or unusual informations, such as wildlife sightings.

As described to earlier, any serious accidents should be reported to the president of GMS, or to another officer in the organization as soon as possible.

Substitute Leader
If circumstances prevent you from leading a climb, contact GMS, and review your group list, searching for someone who has previous experience as a leader or co-leader. If a replacement is found, relay all pertinent information on the climb to that person as early as possible. If you cannot locate a replacement, then contact the GMS, and officers or board members will attempt to remedy the problem.

First Aid Kit
The following list is deemed by medical personnel to constitute a basic first aid kit that will address the more common backcountry medical problems.

Essentials

1. Blister Treatment - Moleskin, adhesive foam, or second skin.

2. Tape - Adhesive and/or duct tape.

3. Wound Care
   a. Syringe, or equivalent for irrigation
   b. Antibiotic ointment
   c. Steri strips, or butterfly bandages
   d. Band-aids, or other small adhesive bandages
   e. Gauze pads, various sizes

4. Equipment
   a. Knife or scissors
   b. Tweezers
   c. Foil blanket for warmth

5. Medications
   a. Aspirin, and/or Tylenol or ibuprofen for pain
   b. Antihistamine for allergic reactions
   c. Sugar source for hypoglycemia, consider sports drinks, high energy food supplement,
   candy, etc.

WARNING: Do not give food or drink to an unconscious victim..