Glacier Mountaineering Society
PO Box 1241, Kalispell, MT 59903
Contact GMS
Summer 2007 Climbing Schedule

The 2007 GMS Climbing Schedule contains has a mix of climbs. Be sure to check the dates carefully and mark your calendar after signing up for a climb. The GMS Mountaineering Week schedule is provided on a separate page. All climbs require preregistration with the climb coordinator. The list of climb coordinators and phone numbers accompanied the 2007 GMS Journal when it was sent to members. The first day to sign up for climbs was published in the 2007 GMS Journal.

Some climbs fill up quickly. If the climb coordinator reports a climb as full it will be so marked in the schedule.

Note: Only dues current members who have completed and signed a GMS Liability Release form may sign up for climbs. Coordinators may request to see your membership card before the start of a climb. Your membership card verifies that a GMS Liability Release form was signed and is on file with GMS. Members will receive phone numbers for coordinators on an insert included with this Journal. Be sure to carefully discuss the climb with the coordinator to ascertain your ability to complete the climb. Also be sure to get the start time and meeting location from the coordinator. If you must cancel from a climb, please call the coordinator as soon as possible.

Members are requested to review the Ten Tips for Successful Outings and the GMS Climb Classification System. In the event you must cancel from a climb please call the coordinator as soon as possible.

An Invitation for Non-Members: Want to participate in these Climbs? You're invited to download a Membership Application and mail it to GMS with your check. GMS will send you a membership card, a copy of the most recent Journal and a list of climb coordinators and phone numbers for the current climbing season. Review the list of coordinated climbs and their ratings, then all you have to do is call a coordinator to sign up.

2007 GMS Summer Climbing Schedule
April 21, 2007 through September 15, 2007
Date Peak & Elevation (ft.) Rating Description Limit
Saturday
April 21
Columbia Mountain
(7,234 ft.)
 II(2)LL-I
Location: Swan Range
Comments: For well conditioned hikers.
What to Expect: A ten-mile trail walk with about 4,200 feet elevation gain. Ice axes may be necessary. Your four-footed friends are invited as well.
 12
Saturday
May 5
Mount Aeneas
(7,528 ft.) - Jewel Basin Circuit
 II(3)MM-I
Location: Swan Range
Comments: For intermediate hikers interested in snow travel and use of ice axes.
What to expect: This will be a warm-up for summer climbing and depending upon conditions, might include some snowshoeing and need for ice axe.
Sign-up: Members may sign-up immediately for this climb.
 10
Saturday
May 12
Rock Climbing
 Variable
Location: Stone Hill - Eureka
Comments: For rock climbers who know the basics of rock climbing.
What to expect: This will be a Basic Self-Rescue Climbing Clinic to learn some rope skills that could help climbers in a pinch. We will practice some techniques from Fasulo's book, "Self Rescue." Required gear: Bring helmet, climbing harness, belay device, locking carabiner and normal climbing shoes used in Glacier (rock shoes will work but not necessary). Optional gear: If you have them, bring sewn runners, a few D-biners and 8 to 10-foot cordalettes (7 to 8 mm cord).
 10
Saturday
May 19
Vertical Tune-Up
 Variable
Location: Stone Hill - Eureka
Comments: For beginners to advanced.
What to expect: This day is open to anyone who wants to develop and/or improve their skills on Class 5 terrain. Activities will be adapted for who participates: beginners and seasoned climbers alike are welcome. Harnesses and shoes are required; everything else can be provided.
 12
Saturday to
Monday
May 19-21
Gunsight Mountain
(9,258 ft.)
 III(4)LL-I
Location: Lake McDonald
Comments: For intermediate climbers /backcountry skiers.
What to expect: Spend two nights at the Sperry campground and climb Gunsight crossing the Sperry Glacier. Participants need a harness and winter camping gear. This trip may be a ski mountaineering trip depending on conditions. Prospective climbers should watch the 14-minute backcountry video on the Park's website if they haven't before.
 6
Saturday
June 9
Warrior Mountain
(7,903 ft.)
 III(3)LM-I
Location: Swan Range
Comments: For intermediate climbers.
What to expect: Trailhead is at Napa Point in the Goat Creek State Forest (elevation 6,243). The trip is an easy trail hike, about 10 miles round trip, along the southern part of the Alpine Trail to Inspiration Pass and on to Warrior Mountain. Expect abundant snow. Ice axe required. Dogs are welcome on this non-technical trip.
 10
Sunday
June 10
Old Baldy
(9,156 ft.)

Saturday climb of Wind Mountain (6,917 ft.) is optional

 III(3)SM-I
The Climb Coordinator reports this climb is full.
Location: Rocky Mountain Front west of Choteau
Comments: For conditioned climbers.
Note: Ice axes may be required! Check with the coordinator a few days before the climb or look on the GMS website for info.
What to expect: This peak is the second highest summit in the Bob Marshall Wilderness along the Rocky Mountain Front and is a prominent landmark seen far out on the plains and from summits in Glacier National Park. It provides fantastic views of the Bob Marshall Wilderness and all the way north to the heart of Glacier. We'll access the mountain from the Headquarters Pass trailhead, bushwhack up a short valley then scramble to the summit. The round-trip distance is about five miles and the elevation gain is 3,100 feet. The climb will take about eight hours to complete. The most difficult pitch is Class 3 and suitable for most beginners but the elevation gain makes for a challenging effort. A substantial snow drift usually forms near the summit and may require an ice axe to negotiate safely. Be prepared for this contingency with an ice axe and the knowledge and experience to use it. The pace of this climb will be determined by the participants, but the coordinator will discuss this aspect at the time of sign up. Participants are encouraged to come over to the east side early enough on Saturday for an easy afternoon climb of Wind Mountain - GMS Rating: III(3)SS.
 12
Sunday
June 17
Mount Frazier
(8,315 ft.)
 III(3)MM
The Climb Coordinator reports this climb is full.
Location: Rocky Mountain Front West of Bynum
Comments: For conditioned climbers.
What to expect: We will meet at the Blackleaf trailhead and hike three miles along Trail 106. At this point the off-trail Class 3 scramble leads to the summit. Views of the Rocky Mountain Front with the undulating prairie to the east are spectacular.
 12
Saturday
Sunday
June 23-24
Mount Geduhn
(8,375 ft.) and Anaconda Peak (8,279)
 III(4)LL-X
Location: North Central Glacier National Park.
Comments: For advanced climbers.
What to expect: A fast killer pace! 14+ mile approach via Logging Lake is just the beginning of this serious mountaineering challenge. Prospective climbers should watch the 14-minute backcountry video on the Park's website if they haven't before.
 6
Saturday
July 7
Mount Henry (8,847 ft.),
Mount Ellsworth (8,581 ft.) and
Never Laughs Mtn. (7,641 ft.)
 III(4)ML
Location: Two Medicine
Comments: For conditioned climbers.
What to expect: Three peaks and the beauty of seldom-visited Aster Park amid the grandeur of the Two Medicine Valley. Beginning at the Scenic Point trailhead and ending at the Middle Two Medicine boat dock. This will be a full 13 mile day with 4,700 vertical fee of gain.
 12
Saturday
July 7
Old Man of the Hills
(8,225 ft.)
 III(3)LL-X
Location: Rocky Mountain Front West of Dupuyer
Comments: For intermediate climbers.
What to expect: A moderate to face paced exploratory route up the North Fork of Dupuyer Creek if road is passable. If not, then Blackleaf Canyon.
 12
Tuesday
July 10
Wynn Mountain
(8,404 ft.)
 III(3)MM
Location: Many Glacier
Comments: For beginning to intermediate climbers.
What to expect: A slow, leisurely pace with lots of breaks. Expect an 8 to 10-hour day with 6.3 trail miles and two miles off trail. The elevation gain is 3,000 feet with a little bushwhacking.
 10
Saturday
July 14
Little Chief Mtn.
(9,541 ft.)
 III(4)ML
Due to unforeseen circumstances the coordinator has cancelled this climb.
Location: St. Mary Valley
Comments: For intermediate to advanced climbers.
What to expect: A moderate pace, but with over 5,000 feet elevation gain, expect a long (up to 12-hour) 9 mile day.
 10
Saturday
July 14
Ipasha Peak (9,572 ft.)
 II(3)LL
Location: North Central Area of Glacier National Park.
Comments: For intermediate climbers
What to expect: This is a long (20-mile) trail walk and then another three miles off trail. Past Ahern Pass we'll follow the gully up to the summit. Expect a face pace and long day.
 10
July 16-22
 Glacier Mountaineering Week
See the separate schedule of climbs and events for this week.
July 22-26
5 Days
Blackfoot Mountain (9,258)
Walton Mountain (8,926 ft.)
 III(5)LL-I
Location: St. Mary Valley
Comments: For tough intermediate to advanced climbers.
What to expect: On the 22nd we will hike in and set up base camp near the toe of Jackson Glacier. We will climb on the 23rd and 25th; the 24th will be a rest day at base camp. On the 26th we will break camp and hike out . Both Blackfoot (11 hours, 5,700 vertical) and Walton (14 hours) are long days. Overnight camping and glacier gear are necessary. For more info, see trip description in 2003 GMS Journal, pp 24-25. Prospective climbers should watch the 14-minute backcountry video on the Park's website if they haven't before.
 6
Saturday
Sunday
July 28-29
Vulture Peak, South Summit (9,390 ft.)
 III(4)LL-X
The Climb Coordinator reports this climb is full but names will be taken for a wait list.
Location: Livingston Range, Glacier National Park
Comments: For tough intermediate to advanced climbers.
What to expect: This will be an attempt to find a way up from Quartz Lake. Pace will be fast when possible and slow by necessity. Expect just about anything! Prospective climbers should watch the 14-minute backcountry video on the Park's website if they haven't before.
 6
Saturday
Sunday
August 4-5
Grizzly Mountain (9,067 ft.) and Mount Rockwell (9,272 ft.)
 III(4)LL
Location: Two Medicine
Comments: For intermediate climbers.
What to expect: Backpack into the Cobalt Lake backcountry campsite on Saturday and climb Grizzly that day. On Sunday we would climb Rockwell and then exit the backcountry. Required gear includes a helmet. Check with me for other gear. Prospective climbers should watch the 14-minute backcountry video on the Park's website if they haven't before. Prospective climbers should watch the 14-minute backcountry video on the Park's website if they haven't before.
 7
Saturday
August 11
Calf Robe Mtn. (7,920 ft.) and Red Crow Mtn. (7,891 ft.)
 III(3)LL
Location: Southern Glacier National Park
Comments: For beginners to intermediate climbers.
What to expect: A long day with some bushwhacking and some trail walking. About 14 miles round trip with 3,800 feet vertical gain. Approach to be via Firebrand Pass.
 10
Saturday
August 11
Going-to-the-Sun Mountain
(9,642 ft.)
 III(4)ML
The Climb Coordinator reports this climb is full but names will be taken for a wait list.
Location: Logan Pass
Comments: For intermediate climbers.
What to expect: Our route will be the standard West Face Route and the diagonal. Round trip distance is 8 miles with 3,700 vertical feet gain. The route includes some bushwhacking, non-technical scrambling and a small amount of class 4 climbing. Plan on at least 10 hours.
 10
Saturday
August 18
Mount Richards (7,927 ft.) and Mount Alderson (8,832 ft.)
 III(4)LL
Location: Waterton
Comments: For moderate to experienced climbers.
What to expect: Approximately 11 hours round trip with elevation gain of 5,300 feet. 19 miles (half by trail). Pace - steady and moderate. Offering great views, this loop starts and ends in the Waterton townsite. We will encounter moderate exposure on the narrow ridge leading to Mount Richards (just north of the U.S. border). The ridge widens west of Richards as we climb up the Park's third highest peak, Mount Alderson. After our descent along Alderson’s west ridge to Carthew Lakes, we will follow the hiking trail out.
 8
Sunday
August 26
Heavy Runner Mountain
(8,016 ft.)
 III(5.3)MS
The Climb Coordinator reports this climb is full.
Location: Logan Pass
Comments: For climbers with some roped experience.
What to expect: The climb to the true summit (not always the one that climbers get to) will involve a roped belay up the 70-foot pitch. The descent will be done by rappel. The approach is Class 2 and 3 through two hanging valleys and along beautiful alpine terrain. Expect a leisurely but steady pace and an 8- 9 hour day.
 6
Sunday
September 2
Heavens Peak
(8,987 ft.)
 III(4)ML
The Climb Coordinator reports this climb is full.
Location: McDonald Valley
Comments: For intermediate climbers.
What to expect: A long day with over 5,000 feet in elevation gain. Pace will be moderate to fast. Route will cross McDonald Creek, ascend the Glacier Wall and continue up the East Face Route.
 10
Saturday
Sept. 15
Double Mountain
(6,003 ft.)
 II(3)MM-X
Location: McDonald Valley
Comments: For beginning and intermediate climbers.
What to expect: Plan on a full day and bring headlamps. Conditions for crossing the Middlefork of the Flathead River may effect the route. Group members will actively participate in route finding on this exploratory climb. Both summits will be attempted if time, conditions and energy permit. Up to 10 miles and 2,900 feet of vertical gain depending on route.
 10
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