Choose Your Climb Carefully
Ten Tips for Successful Outings
by Ralph Thornton
The Glacier Mountaineering Society provides a wonderful opportunity to meet new people, experience wonders of the mountain environment and learn and refine new skills. To make these experiences as safe and enjoyable as they can be it is essential that members consider carefully the coordinated climbs in which they plan on participating. Following are a few suggestions to enhance your GMS experience.
1) Review Climb Descriptions and Personal Ability
GMS outings range from fairly easy short scrambles to more technically difficult climbs. In addition some climbs require an extraordinary amount of stamina. GMS uses a Climb Classification System to identify a climb’s level of difficulty. The classification system is described in every issue of the Journal. It provides a rating for the overall level of climbing difficulty, the level of difficulty for the most difficult pitch or section, the amount of elevation gain and the round trip distance covered. Participants should possess adequate skills for the level of difficulty and be physically fit enough to safely complete the climb.
If you are not familiar with the GMS Climb Classification System or have not climbed in Glacier previously discuss this with the coordinator to determine whether you would be able to complete a given climb. You must be able to make an honest appraisal of your skills and ability and be able to discuss this appraisal with your peers. Remember, you are responsible for your own safety at all times.
2) Climb Coordinators are Individuals
Choosing a climb coordinator is like choosing a climbing partner. You must be comfortable with the coordinator’s ability level, intended route and the speed at which the hike-in or out is made. Ask questions when signing up for a climb. How fast will the group go? What especial difficulties are expected? It is expected that climb coordinators have completed the scheduled climb at some time in the past and know the route (unless the climb is marked as “exploratory” in the Journal description). In addition to information about the climb ask some questions of the coordinator. Is the coordinator willing to set a pace adequate for the slowest individual? Will the coordinator keep the group together? Is the coordinator conscientious of group safety? Try to get as much information as possible so that you can be comfortable with your choice of climb and coordinator.
3) Come Prepared
All climbs require a certain basic level of preparedness beyond physical ability and stamina. At the least participants should come prepared with all climbing essentials such as food and water, rain gear, personal first aid supplies, bug dope, sun screen, hat, sunglasses, proper footwear, extra clothing, flashlight and/or headlamp and emergency supplies.
4) Is an Ice Axe or helmet Required?
If the coordinator requires an ice axe for a particular climb you must have an ice axe AND be have the experience to safely use it for self arrest. An ice axe can be a dangerous tool unless you know how to use it correctly and have practiced long enough that using it for self arrest has become automatic. Too many participants show up for climbs with brand new ice axes they’ve never used. Learn how to make a self arrest in a variety of circumstances and practice every year. While there is no substitute for a good hands on mountaineering course and on snow practice, two good references on the use of an ice axe for self arrest are “Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills,” sixth edition, published by The Mountaineers, 1997, pp 290-306 and “A Climber’s Guide to Glacier National Park” by J. Gordon Edwards, 1995, pp 30-34.
If a helmet is required by the coordinator you must have and use a helmet.
Coordinators should not just recommend a helmut or ice axe. Either they are required or not. If a coordinator inadvertently says something is recommended then you should assume the item is required and bring it on the climb and, again, know how to use it.
5) Groups Must Stay Together
The coordinator has several responsibilities, mostly related to safety. For this reason, no participant(s) should separate from the group to climb ahead or do a different route. Faster climbers need to adjust to the group pace, as going out ahead, especially in steep terrain is irresponsible, and unquestionably increases the risk of rock fall on those below. The group may be allowed to spread out some on ridge tops or other non risk areas, but only at the coordinator's discretion. GMS has taken action against members who separate from the group or coordinators who set a pace too fast so as to result in members becoming separated. Because of what happened during a climb in 2002, for example, the GMS board of directors revoked an individual's membership.
6) Be Sure to Register
All GMS climbs have limits to the number of participants. Be sure to call ahead and register for your climb. Find out the meeting place and time. A phone number is provided for every climb coordinator on a handout included with the Journal.
7) Be on Time
Simple, arrive at the meeting place on time and ready to begin your climb.
8) Notify the Coordinator in the Event You Must Cancel
Pay particular attention to your schedule. If you know you cannot attend a climb for which you have signed up then CALL THE COORDINATOR. Most climbs fill to capacity early and additional members may be on a coordinator’s waiting list. Please extend the courtesy of calling the coordinator to inform him/her that you will not be able to attend a climb.
9) The Mountain Will Always Be There
You’re aim is to say the same. In the event of bad weather or other circumstances that may bring safely below an accepted level, turn back. The mountain will be there another time. You can return to try again.
10) Have Fun
The primary purpose of GMS outings is fun. The challenge of high places has many rewards. Enjoy your climb and the camaraderie of those sharing the experience.
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